Vitamin C is one of those active ingredients that in cosmetics are like an excellent piece of clothing, it never goes out of style!
Its functions are multiple: first of all it is a powerful antioxidant and is often used in formulas in combination with vitamin E (tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate) as these two antioxidants are able to protect and regenerate each other.
On the skin, it shows a antimelanogenic effect (inhibits the formation of skin spots) and also stimulates the biosynthesis of collagen, a structural protein of connective tissue.
The uses of vitamin C in cosmetic formulations are immense thanks to the'high efficacy of this molecule which guarantees, with frequent and rigorous use, a brighter, redensified, toned and elastic skin.
And now some BonPils on vitamin C:
Vitamin C pure (ascorbyc acid) is water soluble, like many of its derivatives used in the cosmetic field (sodium ascorbyl phospate , Magnesium ascorbyl phospate and sodium ascorbyl glucoside). Vitamin C in these forms is a very powerful antioxidant and reacts powerfully with 'oxygen often causing the color change (to brown) of the formula in which is contained.
- Over the years, laboratories have created Vitamin C derivatives fat-soluble such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and ascorbyl isostearate which are in oily form and extremely stable.
Both forms of Vitamin C (water-soluble and fat-soluble) are found on the market in an equal way.
For emulsions, the choice of the type of Vitamin C is at the discretion of the brand or the cosmetic formulator, even if the lipophilic derivatives are usually preferred as they are less reactive than the aqueous ones and they allow a higher percentage to be inserted in the formula without causing instability and browning phenomena to the emulsion.
When the color of the cream or serum turns brown it means that Vitamin C has oxidized and that can no longer perform its functions
at the skin level.
Lately on the market there are many Vitamin C powders 100% to add to your moisturizer to enrich it. These powders are hydrophilic forms such as sodium ascorbyl phospate which dissolve well in the aqueous portion of the cream or serum before application. This is an excellent way to prevent instability phenomena which lead to browning over time, precisely because it is an express insertionit.
In'application of a Vitamin C-based serum or cream, the results on reduction of dark spots are visible after about a couple of months of constant application, morning and evening, while the skin appears brighter and more compact after a few weeks.
Finally, vitamin C is suitable for all skin types and has no particular contraindications.
Dott.ssa Federica D'Incà - COSMAST Master in Cosmetic Science and Technology
“Every woman has the right to be beautiful” - Elizabeth Arden