Has anyone ever told you what the first rule of a cosmetic is?
The first rule to ensure the effectiveness of a cosmetic product is to apply it regularly! For this reason the texture, or the set of tactile characteristics of a product, is so important.
The efficacy of the cosmetic is therefore given by the set of functional effects, given by the active substances, and the sensory effects which determine its pleasantness and excellent sensoriality for the consumer and consequently its constant application.
The cosmetic textures are many and always inevolving, below is a simple diagram to recognize the main types:
The sensory analysis of a cosmetic, which includes the analysis of the pleasantness of the texture, is carried out in different moments:
If you place the cosmetic between your forefinger and thumb and join and separate them, how does it look? Is it sticky or is it instead melting? Does it take a lot of force to separate the two fingers? Do strings form when you detach your fingers?
- watery sensation: a wet effect is felt during the first five rotations;
- sensation of freshness: a "fresh" effect is felt during the first five rotations;
- oily sensation: there is a sensation of richness in the cosmetic product but still a pleasant smoothness;
- greasy sensation: a sensation of richness is felt in the cosmetic product and very limited smoothness.
- feeling of oily residue: the skin is shiny and not sticky;
- feeling of residual fat: the skin is slightly dull and there is a sticky sensation;
- silky sensation: no residue is noticed, as if nothing had been smeared. This sensation is typical of silky and watery textures.
The formulator modulates the first two parameters with the choice of oils and the after feel with the choice of the emulsifier, the molecule that allows the union and stabilization of aqueous and oil phase in emulsions.
The task of the cosmetic formulator is therefore to modulate these components to obtain a texture and sensoriality that are as pleasant for the consumer as possible and which allows the latter to apply the product constantly, like a cuddle.
Dott.ssa Federica D'Incà - COSMAST Master in Cosmetic Science and Technology
“Every woman has the right to be beautiful” - Elizabeth Arden