Today we're talking about a problem that afflicts many people, oily skin.
Oily skin appears glossy due toexcessive sebum secretion and usually the presence of:
- comedones openi (blackheads)
- comedones closed (common pimples)
Oily skin requires an appropriate cosmetic protocol to alleviate the signs of this condition which in advanced states can also lead to psychological and social discomfort.
So let's see together what can be used and what is best avoided.
WHAT TO USE
all the plant derivatives with antiseborrheic properties are excellent, such as agrimonia, nettle, alianthus, bardana, wood sorrel, helichrysum, bearberry, St. John's wort andd tea.
It is calso advisable to use tonics or masks based on salicylic acid (better to avoid it in the summer, in conjunction with with sun exposure), glycolic acid and lactic acid which possess a keratolytic activity, therefore they promote exfoliation of the stratum corneum and skin renewal. If the concentration of acids is very high, it is better to limit the treatment to once a week.
Remember not to expose yourself to sunlight when you put on these masks or in the immediately following hours, if you do, use a sunscreen.
Excellent also the use of PHAs such as lactobionic acid which has a triple advantage: it has an action keratolytic, a moisturizing and an antioxidant action and is free from the potential irritating effects of common acids.
To also guarantee an effective action against the bacterial skin flora, it is possible to insert substances that counteract the mildest forms of acne and which have a potential antimicrobial activity such as the acid azelaic.
niacinamide (vitamin B3) is also a perfect ingredient for this type of skin as it provides hydration by protecting the hydrolipidic barrier and promotes skin uniformity. We often find this molecule combined with Zinc whose action is sebum-regulating.
To counteract the shiny effect it is also possible to use some mattifying powders with sebum-absorbingaction such as kaolin, corn starch and masks based on clay.
WHAT TO AVOID
It would be better to avoid all aggressive ingredients such as mechanical scrubbers and frequent cleansing with detergents too aggressive, as they could cause further stress for the skin , which would respond by secreting even more sebum to protect itself.
Remember, the best way to take care of our skin is to always listen to it!
Dott.ssa Federica D'Incà - COSMAST Master in Cosmetic Science and Technology
"Every woman has the right to be beautiful" - Elizabeth Arden